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Mommy’s got a brand new hat

March 6, 2006

The pattern is from Twists and Turns, I linked to it in last week’s entry.

I did the applied I cord as directed, half expecting that it would not stretch enough to get the hat on, and I was right… So I ripped out the I cord and attached an inch of ribbing instead, and it was much better. I even still have maybe 100 yards of yarn left, too, so this emerald BFL is the gift that keeps on giving! Maybe I’ll do a collar or cuffs on something.

I plyed another hank of the teal silk/merino. I didn’t take a picture of it because it looks the same as the last one, except a little smaller and a lot less aggravating. This time the center pull ball center-pulled quite nicely and there was only one teeny barfglob right at the beginning. I have maybe 2 1/2 more ounces to spin.

I finished the shirt tails of Eris.

It was really not difficult to convert it to a symmetrical shape. I started out with the suggestions that came from the designer, and worked out the specifics myself. I’ll post them at the end of this entry for anyone who is making the pattern and wants the details.

Two sleeves to do. I have about 500 yards of yarn left. Will I make it?? Will I end up with ballet sleeves??

Ten minutes after finishing my hat, I wound this (sorry it’s blurry).

It’s Lisa’s Sock! in the Pacific shade – absolutely gorgeous, even more beautiful in the ball than the skein. This is going to be the ‘Latvian Socks’ from Folk Socks. I cast on already.

Eris Symmetrical Shirttail

She says, in her suggestions:
“When you reach the point where the short rows are begun for the hem at step 11, divide the stitches into four portions: place the four stitches centered at the right-hand and left-hand side “seams” on holders or waste yarn; place the remaining stitches for the back on waste yarn; place the remaining stitches for the front on your working needles.”

I followed Step 11 more literally – I continued with the next round till 2 stitches before the NEXT SIDE SEAM, put those 2 stitches and the 2 on the other side onto a pin, purled back till 3 stitches before the OTHER side seam, wrapped and turned, and put the 2 stitches AFTER the wrapped stitch plus the 2 on the other side onto a pin. So I had 4 stitches at each side on pins, the back on the cable of the circular needle, one wrapped stitch on the needle, and working yarn ready to work a wrong side row across the front.

IMPORTANT: Keep your center front marker in as you do this. You will need to count stitches from it below. In fact, go mark the center of the back now, while you have a second.

She said:
“Work the short row instructions of step 12 across the front only. Repeat for the back. You should now have a conventionally-shaped, symmetric, shirttail hem.”

To make that a bit more specific:
I then followed step 12 across the front only, and also step 13 and 14. When I had done all of that, I had a curved shirt tail on the front, plus I had purled the 4 stitches off the pin. I haven’t done anything with the back yet, it’s still hanging out on the needle. Not to worry.

She then said:
“Follow steps 15 and 16 for the right front cabled corner, but stop working the hem band in step 16 when you’re about three-quarters of the way across the front. Do not break the yarn. (However, you can estimate where the left front cabled corner will end, and work the hem band to that point, then break the yarn, leaving enough for grafting.) “

That’s what I did, with a small addition: When I finished working the chart, I counted how many stitches before the center marker I was. That is how far out the corner will come on the other side and it tells you how far beyond the center stitch to go before you break the yarn as she says above. I happened to end with about 18 stitches left between the end of the chart and the center marker, so as I was applying the border by repeating rows 83-90 of the chart, I went 18 stitches beyond the center marker. Then I just cut the yarn and put the border stitches on a pin for later.

She said:
“Follow steps 15 and 16 for the left front cabled corner, but use Chart N (right) instead and stop after row 90–do not repeat rows 83-90. Go back to the hem band that you had worked after the right front cabled corner, and continue working the hem band until you reach the left front cabled corner. Graft the hem band closed.”

To expand on that a little, what I did at that point was work step 17. Count 20 stitches up from your last wrapped stitch before the held side seam stitches. Attach your yarn there so you can begin knitting on the right side. Do step 17. The only change is that when you reach the end of your live stitches, you should knit the stitches on the pin at the side seam (that flipping up and picking up is what you’ll do when you are doing all of this on the back). I did the little contrast thread thing, but I didn’t find that it helped me much when it came to picking up from the back side of them. If I were doing it again, I would be sure I put that contrast thread on the back side of the stitches.

From here you will see what to do – knit the corner chart as directed, and when you have used up all your live stitches, graft it to the held stitches coming from the other side.

“Follow the instructions for the back cabled corner, making similar modifications.”

To expand on that a little:
Once you finish the front, you have your live stitches for the back still on the needle. Attach the yarn so you are ready for a wrong side row, and do the second half of step 11 (a wrong side row with a wrap and turn at the end). Finish step 11, and do steps 12 and 13 and 14 as written. Do step 15, but instead of taking stitches off a holder at this point you will pick up stitches from the back of those pesky marked stitches at the side seam that used to be held.

Do step 16 (work the chart), and again determine how far to go past the center by noticing how many stitches are left on your side of the marker when you finish the chart. Do step 17 as written. Graft. You are done. Wasn’t that easy?

7 Comments leave one →
  1. March 6, 2006 10:14 am

    Lovely knitting! I have been using color for the past few years, and am now migrating back towards more techinical knitting in simpler yarns. I very much like your cap and Eris. I am currently doing my first Rogue…

  2. March 6, 2006 1:17 pm

    Thanks for the detailed explanation, Caroline! It’s quite interesting the changes you made. And the cap is really pretty!

  3. Melanie permalink
    March 6, 2006 3:33 pm

    The beret is beautiful in your handspun Emerald biffle. You’ll be finished Eris before you know it. Thanks for all the info on the symmetrical shaping.

  4. March 6, 2006 5:34 pm

    I’m sorry the I-cord didn’t work out. Janet and her tech editor questioned me about that aspect of the pattern. I measured, re-measured, and tried the hat on several different sized heads and didn’t have a problem, but different knitters and all that… (: I am a huge fan of crocheting straight over the needles myself, and I’m glad that you had no other problems. Your yarn IS lovely.

  5. March 6, 2006 7:02 pm

    Hey, Amanda – thanks for dropping in! I made the smaller size, if I’d been thinking I suppose I’d have made the larger size with the i-cord in mind, but I already have one beret that’s too big and didn’t want another one!

  6. March 6, 2006 8:44 pm

    The Sweater looks awesome Caroline! I can’t wait to get that color of Sock!

  7. March 7, 2006 5:48 am

    I can’t believe how beautifully the hat looks! That is such a beautiful shade too! Eris looks smashing I can’t wait to see a ‘on the model shot’. I haven’t seen pacific up close. Everytime I see a new color of Lisa’s I’m wowed. I haven’t seen one I don’t like.

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